Turbosmart spent years selling the parts that go around a turbo before they sold the turbo itself. That shows in the range. The TS-1 and TS-2 are built as externally wastegated units for people already running a proper gate and a manifold to suit, which makes them a straightforward choice for a serious single turbo build and the wrong choice for a stock manifold bolt on.
The short answer
- The 6262 frame suits 2.0L to 2.5L engines and small sixes that need to stay responsive.
- The 6870 frame is for larger engines and higher power targets, and it will feel lazy on a small four.
- Pick TS-2 over TS-1 when you want the water cooled centre section, particularly on a street car that gets parked hot.
- These are externally gated turbos. Budget for the wastegate, flanges and clamps in the same order.
How the Turbosmart turbo range is put together
Two things decide what you end up with. The frame, written as a four digit number, and the turbine housing.
The number pairs describe the compressor and turbine wheel package, so the 6870 is the larger of the two frames we stock in both series. Bigger frame, more airflow, more lag. That trade never goes away no matter whose badge is on the compressor cover.
The turbine housing is where the character comes from. Turbosmart offer the same frame in several flavours: a T3 with a 0.63 A/R for response, a T4 at 0.82 A/R for a broader spread, a V-band at 0.96 A/R, and a T4 divided at 1.00 A/R for engines that want to breathe at the top. Housings are available separately too, like the B frame T3 1.10 A/R housing that suits a 66mm turbine, so a change of character does not always mean a change of turbo.
TS-1 and TS-2 share the same basic idea. The TS-2 adds water cooling to the centre section, which helps the bearing deal with heat soak after a hard run. If you have the room and the plumbing, it is the version to have on a road car. If you want the simplest install, the TS-1 has one less thing to route.
Picking the right one for your build
6262 for 2.0L to 3.0L
This is the frame that suits most of the cars we see. The TS-1 6262 in T3 with a 0.63 A/R is the responsive setup, and it is the one to pick if the car spends its life on the road or on a tight circuit. Moving to the TS-1 6262 in T4 with a 0.82 A/R trades a little of that early boost for more room at the top.
Want the water cooled version of the same thing? The TS-2 6262 T4 0.82 A/R is the direct equivalent, and it is the one we would run on a street car that gets driven hard and then shut down in a car park.
6870 for bigger engines and bigger targets
Step up here when the engine is large enough to light it and the rest of the build can back the power. The TS-1 6870 with a V-band 0.96 A/R housing suits a custom manifold and a car built around the turbo. The TS-2 6870 with the T4 divided 1.00 A/R housing is the pick for a divided manifold on a six, where separating the pulses is worth real response back.
Both are a lot of turbo for a 2.0L. If your engine is under about 2.5L and the car has to be driveable, stay with the 6262 and spend the difference on fuel system and boost control.
| If you want | Go for | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A responsive 2.0L street or circuit car | TS-1 6262, T3 0.63 A/R | Smallest housing in the range fills earliest |
| A 2.0L to 3.0L doing everything | TS-1 or TS-2 6262, T4 0.82 A/R | Broader spread without losing the mid range |
| A six on a divided manifold | TS-2 6870, T4 divided 1.00 A/R | Pulse separation buys back response on a big frame |
| A hot street car you park straight after a run | Any TS-2 | Water cooled centre handles heat soak better |
What to buy with it
Start with the gaskets, because nothing goes together without them. You need the right T3 or T4 turbine inlet gasket and the 38.1mm oil return gasket. A 38.1mm turbo mount makes it far easier to get the drain angle right, and the billet oil drain extension helps when the block fitting and the turbo do not line up the way you hoped.
Two oil parts are worth the money on any ball bearing turbo. The inline oil filter keeps debris out of the bearing, and the OPR V2 oil pressure regulator stops a high pressure oil system pushing past the seals. Both are cheaper than a rebuild.
Because these turbos are externally gated, you need a wastegate. A GenV HyperGate45 covers most builds on the 6262, and a ProGate50 is the safer call behind a 6870 or any low boost target. Add the WG45 outlet weld flange if you are plumbing the dump back into the exhaust.
Finish with boost control and something to watch it on. The Boost Tee manual controller is the simple option, a 52mm boost gauge keeps you honest, and a Vee Port Pro blow off valve handles the surge when you lift.
Where NZ Performance fits
We stock the Turbosmart turbocharger range along with the wider Turbosmart catalogue in Palmerston North, so the gaskets, mounts and oil parts usually ship with the turbo instead of a fortnight later. The Turbosmart wastegate hub is the place to start on the gate side, and the HyperGate45 and 50mm ProGate ranges list every spring and finish option. The oil management range covers the filters, regulators and drain fittings.
If you are still deciding on gate size, our external wastegate sizing guide goes through it properly. Electronic versus manual boost control covers what to run on top of the spring, and choosing turbo size and fuel system puts the whole combination in the order you should buy it.
FAQ
What is the difference between the Turbosmart TS-1 and TS-2?
The TS-2 adds a water cooled centre section on top of the TS-1 layout. Water cooling helps the bearing survive heat soak after a hard run, which matters on a street car that gets shut down hot. The TS-1 is the simpler install, because there is no water plumbing to route.
Which Turbosmart turbo suits a 2.0L four cylinder?
The 6262 frame is the one to look at for a 2.0L to 2.5L engine, or a small six that has to stay responsive. The 6870 is a bigger package aimed at larger engines and higher power targets, and it will feel lazy on a small four.
Are Turbosmart turbos internally or externally gated?
The TS-1 and TS-2 turbos we stock are externally wastegated, so you need a wastegate and a manifold with a gate flange. That is the right way to do it on a serious single turbo build, because boost control stays accurate as the power climbs.
What turbine housing A/R should I pick?
A smaller A/R such as 0.63 fills earlier and suits a road car or a tight circuit. A larger A/R like 0.96 or 1.00 gives away some response and breathes better at high rpm. Choose it around how you actually drive the car rather than the biggest number available.
What else do I need to fit a Turbosmart turbo?
An oil feed and drain, the right turbine inlet and oil return gaskets, a wastegate with its flanges and clamps, and a boost control setup. A regulated oil feed is cheap insurance on any ball bearing turbo, and a turbo mount makes the drain angle much easier to get right.
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