Build Guides
Building a Reliable 1000hp Street Car That Still Drives Home
How a reliable 1000hp 2JZ street build comes together as a matched ecosystem, the weakest-link principle, and why in-stock NZ parts keep it moving.
Will It Actually Fit? And Is Importing It Yourself Really Cheaper?
How to get JZ fitment right the first time, why "the computer says it fits" goes wrong, and the true cost of importing parts yourself versus buying local in NZ.
Will It Pass Cert? Staying WOF-Legal and Sticker-Free in NZ
Will my car pass cert in NZ? How genuine parts make WOF and LVVTA cert smoother, plus how to avoid a green or pink sticker.
1JZ VVTi vs Non-VVTi, and Choosing Cams That Won't Spit a Shim
1JZ VVTi vs non-VVTi explained honestly, plus how to pick cams by goal and why high-lift cams need shimless buckets.
Choosing a Turbo for Your Power Goal, and the Fuel System to Feed It
How to choose turbo size in kW for a 2JZ or 1JZ, then match injectors and a fuel pump to feed it. Honest sizing without killing spool.
The Single-Turbo Conversion: What You Actually Need to Ditch the Twins
Planning a single turbo conversion on a 2JZ or 1JZ? Here's the full real parts list so your build doesn't stall halfway.
eBay Turbos vs the Real Thing: Why Cheap Parts End Up Costing the Most
Are cheap eBay turbos ever worth it? The real failure modes of fake turbos, the buy-nice-or-buy-twice maths, and how to spot a genuine Garrett from a copy.
Head Studs, Gaskets and Pistons: Holding Big Boost Without Lifting the Head
Why ARP head studs and the right MLS gasket stop 2JZ head lift on big boost, plus how to pick piston bore and compression for a boosted build.
Uncle Rod: What Actually Kills JZ Bottom Ends, and How to Stop Him Visiting
Connecting rod failure on a 2JZ comes from detonation, over-revving and oil starvation. Here is what really kills JZ bottom ends and how bearings and forged rods stop it.